在地的台灣精神。常常來參加 Link and Tag 活動的品牌 Havaan Tuvali。這次很榮幸可以跟品牌創辦人 Eric Yeh 在 Watch Out 2018 錶展的前夕，有個專訪。談談他的品牌，他的理念，最新的作品，以及之後的計畫。他本人在會在六月23，24日親自來參加 Watch Out 錶展。想要直接面對面跟 Eric Yeh 聊錶，也別忘了到時華山見了。
Watch Out 錶展 活動連結: https://www.facebook.com/events/365038533997883/
Havaan Tuvali:
訪談內容:
Link and Tag : 大概跟讀者介紹一下你自己，你的的背景，還有最重要的，你是怎麼進入手錶這個產業的?
Eric Yeh: 從小到大，其實我都一直對機械的東西非常有興趣，特別是任何裡面有齒輪的東西。我會嘗試著把它拆解，之後再將其一個一個裝回原樣。但是很奇怪的是，就算我有著對機械產品的熱情，其實一開始我並沒有真正地去深入它，更不用說去想有一個跟機械有關的事業。我在加州州立大學學的其實是化學，我其實是有點想要成為一位化學家。不過，就像是你看到的，我後來並沒有。我反而去了一家金屬回收公司。當我拿到我第一份薪水的時候，我在eBay上為自己買了一隻手錶。那是一只 Aquanautic King Cuda Automatic。在當時其實我對手錶其實懂得不是很多。我之所以買那隻錶純粹是因為它看起來很壞。但是一旦我開始對手錶有所以研究，我開始對手錶一切相關知識很有興趣，像是機芯跟所有其他手錶相關。我就深深愛上手錶了，這些年來，我擁有了不少的手錶，但是這一只 Aquanautic King Cuda 一直還是我的最愛。初戀總是最難以忘懷的，不是嗎?
Link and Tag : 你是怎麼開始創立自己的鐘錶品牌的?
Eric Yeh: 當你喜歡手錶到了一個地步之後，自然地下一步就當然會想要自己來做自己的錶。其中一個原因也是我可能沒這麼多錢來買我想要的手錶，還有是我可以買得起的錶並不是我想要的。我自己也一直有計畫要開始自己的品牌，我也在台灣的鐘錶店實習很長一段時間了解如何保養並且維修機械手錶，為的就是有朝一日可以自創品牌。一開始我並沒有一個明確的時間表說何時要開始，其實也算是一個衝動的決定讓我真的開始這個品牌。當我的前老闆並沒有回應我加薪的要求的時候，我對自己說，馬的，現在不做就永遠不會做了。所以在那個月，我就辭職並且決定來實現我製錶的夢想。
Link and Tag : 品牌名稱的意涵跟有甚麼特殊的淵源嗎?
Eric Yeh: Havaan Tuvali 這個名字其實是來自台灣布農族的語言。意思是”鹿的太陽”。布農族的祖先們相信，當日落的時候，鹿會從森林中出來尋找食物跟水，這也是人們該結束他們一天工作的時間。某種程度上來說，這也是布農族知道時間的一種方式。我想要創造一個品牌是代表台灣最好的精神。可靠，準確，工藝跟異國風情的古怪 (當然是指好的方面)。
Link and Tag: 來談談你最新推出的手錶吧，設計很特別歐
Eric Yeh: 最新作品，The Code Zero-6 Diver，是我們幾個月前才剛推出的手錶，也是我們第一次嘗試來製作潛水錶。趣味跟實用的結合是我們在設計我們第一支潛水錶的想法。靈感來自有次到廣島的海事博物館，我看到一組 EOD Diver 的裝備展示。在潛水夫的氧氣瓶上的壓力閥和其在溫度上的顯示醞釀了這只表的設計。為什麼不來做一只潛水錶有著溫度計在面盤上呢? 就在有了此想法的當夜，這個作品的設計圖就誕生了。面盤上有類似前述壓力計變成在八點鐘方向的小秒針，以及獨一無二的溫度感應指示計，加上500公尺防水係數跟自動 Helium Escape Valve.
Link and Tag: 有甚麼其他鐘錶品牌是讓你覺得跟你的品牌有所關聯?
Eric Yeh: 我一直都很喜歡 Yema，不過不是現在的 Yema，而是在60/70年代的 Yema。在那時，他們的錶款設計是如此的生動且創新。如果再列舉一些的話，經典的 Heuer，Pita Barcelona, Ralf Tech, Azimuth，還有當然，Aquanautic (愛) 。
Link and Tag : 在這個之後還有一些其他甚麼樣的計畫呢?
Eric Yeh: 目前我已經有一些設計完成。品牌上我已經推出了飛行錶，跟潛水錶，下一個計劃我的覺得會選擇賽車風味的錶款或是文錶。作品上將會保持著品牌一貫的傳統使用瑞士機芯加上獨特設計，跟一種與機器不同反而比較多一點人文氣息的點綴。
Link and Tag: 在一兩年後，你希望你的品牌將會如何?
Eric Yeh: 希望那時我依然還是持續地在做錶 (笑)。我希望 Havaan Tuvali 成為一個高端的手錶微品牌，並且繼續維持著一個親民的價格。我也希望在每一年我都可以有新的錶款作品推出，數量上大概每個錶款不超過300隻。再來幾年後，能有不同的產品線在飛行錶，潛水錶，跟賽車錶。
訪問原文:
– Please tell me about yourself, what is your background and how did you get into watches
I’ve always been fascinated by anything mechanical growing up, anything that has gears in it, I would try to take it apart and put it back together. But strangely, even though I have this passion for anything mechanical, I didn’t dig deeper into it, let alone having a career related to it. I studied Chemistry in Cal State University; I actually wanted to be a chemist, but of course, I didn’t become a chemist, I worked in a metal recycling company. When I got a first paycheck, I bought myself a used watch on eBay, it was a Aquanautic King Cuda Automatic, I didn’t know much about watches back then, I bought that watch simply because it looks badass, but once I got that watch, I started to learn more about watches, the movements and everything else that’s watch related. I just fell deeply in love with watches. I’ve owned a fair share of watches over the years, but that Aquanautic King Cuda is still my all-time favorite, the first love is always the most unforgettable.
– Why did you start your own watch brand?
When you love watches too much, the next natural step would be of course to make you own. One reason is because I couldn’t afford the watches that I like, and the ones I could afford are not of my taste. I always had plans to start my own brand and I took apprenticeship in a watch repair shop to learn how to service and repair mechanical watch for a few years to prepare myself for it, but I never really have a timetable for when to start. It was actually an impulsive decision that I started my own watch brand, my ex-employer did not give me the raise I asked for, that night I tell myself, “screw it, it’s now or never”, so that month I quit my job and decided it was time to fulfill my dream of making watches.
– What is the meaning of the name of your brand and what is your brand about?
The name, Havaan Tuvali was originated from the Taiwanese aboriginal Burun tribe language meaning “The deer’s sunset”. The ancient Burun people believed that at suns down, when the deer came out from the forest to browse for food and water, that’s the time for the people to finish up their day of work, in some ways, it is also how the Burun people tell time. I want to create a brand that represents all of Taiwan’s best quality: reliable, precision, craftsmanship and outlandish (in a good way of course).
– What is the story of the watch you released?
The Code Zero-6 Diver, which we just released couple months ago, is out first attempt at making diver’s watch. Fun and practical is the idea behind our first diver’s watch model. The inspiration came from a visit to a local Naval museum in Hiroshima when I saw a display of an EOD Diver and its’ kit, the pressure gauge from the diver’s air tank and its’ sub temperature display fueled the design of the watch. Why not make a watch with a thermometer in the dial? And at the very night, the drawing of the watch was born, the gauge-like dial features an 8 o’clock sub second display and a one-of-a-kind center temperature sensing indicator, matched with at least 500 meters of water resistance and automatic helium escape valve.
– What are the watch brands that you consider as a reference for your brand?
I’ve always been inspired by Yema, not the current Yema, but the 60s/70s Yema, the designs of their watch were so vivid and groundbreaking during the time. Vintage Heuers, Pita Barcelona, Ralf Tech, Azimuth, just to name a few, and of course Aquanautic.
– What will come after in the near future?
I already have a few designs drawn down; since I’ve done a pilot’s watch and diver’s watch now, the next project would be either a race watch or dress watch. It will continue the brand’s trend of using Swiss movement and with a design that’s unique and features more human touch than machinery.
– Where do you like your brand to be in 1-2years from now?
Hopefully still making watches, lol… I like Havaan Tuvali to be a premium micro brand, but still offering watches at cheap, affordable price. I hope to add one new model each year, quantity will be kept no more than 300 for each model and in a few years, to have a lineup of Pilot’s, Diver’s, and Race watches.
